I’m back in Atyrau, my noisy old propellor plane having stayed up in the air just long enough to get us across the Caspian safely. I’m staying in the same crap hotel which I was in a few days ago, but they’ve given me a slightly better room. They’ve hoovered the carpet, and the TV now works. Included in the selection of channels is one showing free-of-charge hardcore German porn 24 hours per day.
Now that’s what I call an improvement in service.