{"id":236,"date":"2006-12-05T04:29:58","date_gmt":"2006-12-05T00:29:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/?p=236"},"modified":"2006-12-07T11:00:58","modified_gmt":"2006-12-07T07:00:58","slug":"the-south-west-of-sakhalin-island","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/236\/","title":{"rendered":"The South-West of Sakhalin Island"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Do you ever lie awake at night wondering what the south-western coast of Sakhalin Island looks like?\u00a0 Of course you do!\u00a0 You&#8217;d not be normal if you didn&#8217;t.<\/p>\n<p>Fortunately for you, your selfless blogger took a trip\u00a0to this very place just after he was issued with his Landcruiser in early October, and he took his camera with him.\u00a0 Delay in posting these pictures can be attributed largely to idleness on my part.\u00a0 Click on a picture for a larger version.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhmap2.gif\"><img title=\"Map of Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Map of Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhmap2.gif\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The road from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to\u00a0the port of Kholmsk on the west coast takes you through wooded mountains which were in full autumn colour.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2018.jpg\"><img title=\"Road to Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Road to Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2018.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2019.jpg\"><img title=\"Road to Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Road to Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2019.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><!--more-->After an hour or so, I arrived at the small port of Kholmsk on the Tatar Straits.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2020.jpg\"><img title=\"Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2020.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2021.jpg\"><img title=\"Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2021.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2022.jpg\"><img title=\"Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Kholmsk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2022.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Some people spend years seeking the truth.\u00a0 Yet more demand the truth.\u00a0 I found it\u00a0along the coast road\u00a0just south of Kholmsk.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2023.jpg\"><img title=\"Pravda, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Pravda, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2023.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>The road along the coast follows the railway line for a bit, and offers drivers plenty of opportunities to tear out their transmission over the many level crossings.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2024.jpg\"><img title=\"Coast road, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Coast road, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2024.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Old fishing ships abandoned with the collapse of the USSR are scattered along the whole of the coastline.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2025.jpg\"><img title=\"Abandoned ship, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Abandoned ship, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2025.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>A little further south lies the town of Nevel&#8217;sk.\u00a0 It is an old fishing collective which has fallen into disrepair since the end of the Soviet Union.\u00a0 It is the most run-down and decrepit place I&#8217;ve ever visited in Russia.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2026.jpg\"><img title=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2026.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2027.jpg\"><img title=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2027.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2029.jpg\"><img title=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2029.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>The dream&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2028.jpg\"><img title=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Nevel'sk, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2028.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>&#8230;the reality.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2030.jpg\"><img title=\"South-West Coast, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"South-West Coast, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2030.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2031.jpg\"><img title=\"Coast road, Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Coast road, Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2031.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>This was almost as far as the road would take you, before you came to a barrier which was closed blocking any further progress.\u00a0 I saw one chap in a beefy Landcruiser get through, but I didn&#8217;t think I&#8217;d understand any explanation or warning that the chap in the little guard house would give me so I turned back.\u00a0 I think the road deteriorates further, and in winter is almost impassable except in a huge Kamaz truck. \u00a0I was a bit disappointed, as I wanted to get to the very southern tip and look across to Japan.\u00a0 People say this is not possible, but I&#8217;m not so sure.\u00a0 Looking out to see due west from the position of the barrier, near the village of Luzhki,\u00a0lets you see the tiny island of Moneron, which is further away from the island than Japan is.<\/p>\n<p>Unable to go further south, I headed back to Nevel&#8217;sk and cut inland in the direction of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.\u00a0 The road, impassable in winter,\u00a0was little more than a gravel track in places and wound its way through the mountains filled with autumn colours which made me feel like I was driving through Appalachia rather than Sakhalin Island, as the following pictures show.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2032.jpg\"><img title=\"Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2032.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2033.jpg\"><img title=\"Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2033.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2034.jpg\"><img title=\"Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2034.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2035.jpg\"><img title=\"Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2035.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2036.jpg\"><img title=\"Sakhalin Island\" style=\"width: 406px; height: 266px\" alt=\"Sakhalin Island\" src=\"https:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/images\/Sakhalin%2036.jpg\" align=\"middle\" \/><\/a>\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Do you ever lie awake at night wondering what the south-western coast of Sakhalin Island looks like?\u00a0 Of course you do!\u00a0 You&#8217;d not be normal if you didn&#8217;t. Fortunately for you, your selfless blogger took a trip\u00a0to this very place &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/236\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[25,46],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/236"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=236"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/236\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=236"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=236"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desertsun.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=236"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}